Rhodes

Rethymno, besides my father’s hometown, is the smallest province of Crete that lies between Iraklio and Hania. Even though the town of Rethymno is just the third largest of Crete, it is known as the intellectual capital of the island. Hmm. When I lay out details like that it sounds boring, doesn’t it? Well, let me try another way. What about questions and answers?

Rethymno Hotels

Why do people choose Rethymno?

First of all, choosing Rethymno for your vacation means choosing Crete, but I’m not going to get into so many details. Crete is a popular island for a reason. Actually, lots of them: because it’s big so everyone can find what they want, because it’s genuinely Greek but its Cretan uniqueness is obvious, because, because, because. That’s not the point though, is it? If you’re looking at this section, that means you’ve already chosen Crete and you’re thinking about making Rethymno your holiday base. So, basically, people choose Rethymno as their base for two reasons: firstly, because they like the environment it offers; still divided into the old and new towns, Rethymno is painted Venetian underneath and history has caressed it in ways that the changes of the present can’t outbalance; and secondly, because of its location. With Minoan sites to the east and beaches to the west, all in reasonable striking distance, Rethymno is basically ideal as a base for your vacation.

What does Rethymno look like?

Well as I mentioned above, Rethymno is a popular place because of its environment. The Venetian influence is still apparent in the houses, the mansions, the alleys. The oldest monuments of Rethymno are Venetian.

Anyway, Rethymno is essentially a rural town with the comforts of an over-crowded city and the beauties of a developed village. Stone-paved, labyrinthal alleys and catwalks, aristocratic buildings dating from the 16th century, Byzantine and Hellenic-Roman remains, these are the things that characterize Rethymno, the things you will find.

It may not fit, but let me make a personal comment at this point: you will like Rethymno from the moment you see it, I’m positive. It’s a beautiful town that has developed enough but not too much and has thankfully kept the parts that make it special and, honestly, I can’t think of a reason why you wouldn’t like it. It’s just too good to be ignored. Not so much information in this paragraph, huh? Just a personal opinion. Let’s move on to the next question, then.

What are the places I should visit in Rethymno?

That’s going to take a while for me to answer. You see, Rethymno may be the smallest province of Crete, as I already stated at that momentary cold information-only speech of mine, but that means nothing. It’s still a big place, full of opportunities. Let us leave the archaeological sites aside, since I’m going to refer to them in the following question and let us stick to the. other kinds of sites.

Moni Arkadiou is the first thing that comes to mind. The Arkadi Monastery was founded in the 11th century and rebuilt in the 17th. Strategically positioned, this old Venetian-style monastery was built by an unknown monk probably named Arkadios (hence the name) and can be found 4km after leaving Rethymno. But what is it that makes it so special? Well, the story that it has to tell. See, Moni Arkadiou was the place where once upon a time in the 19th century Koroneos chose to store the gun powder due to its fort-like shape. When the rebels hid in the monastery, the Turks demanded that the Abbot hand them over and he refused. That resulted in them attacking the Moni on November 7th, 1866. Two days later, they managed to breach the monastery walls and Abbot Gabriel set fire to the gun powder in order to not surrender, thus killing 826 Turks and Greeks, along with himself of course. Quite a story, huh? And you know, you can visit the powder room, too. Also, there is an archaeological museum that contains pictures of the heroes of 1866. Just be warned that due to its sad history, the Moni has a slightly moody atmosphere.

Moni Preveli, 14km east of Plakias (don’t worry, I’ll refer to it too, later), has a bit happier tale to tell. Dating from the 18th century and still well-maintained, Moni Preveli is the place where Abbot Tsouderos began to collect arms during 1866. No, wait – yeah, it was Moni Preveli, the lower half, specifically, that is known as Kato Preveli and is abandoned now. Anyway, the Turks found out about the arms soon and they came to destroy the monastery. But the Abbot, instead of resisting, welcomed them in and got them so drunk that they fell asleep and the monks were able to flee before they woke up and did what they had come to do.

In Piso Preveli, the ‘back’ monastery, you will also find the fountain with the famous Byzantine palindrome “Ni[ps]on anomimata mi monan o[ps]in”, which means “Cleanse your sins, not only your face”. Unfortunately, the original Byzantine church was demolished by the monks in the 1830s, after the Turks kept refusing them permission to make repairs, but some of the furnishings, like some 17th century icons and a piece of the True Cross, were thankfully preserved. Also, in the museum of Moni Preveli you will find a candelabra presented by grateful British soldiers after the war.

Next: the Prasano Gorge. The Prasano Gorge, one of the most beautiful gorges in Crete, dries up between mid-June and mid-October so these are the months that you can visit it. It will take you up to five hours (or at least that’s how long it took me) and you should wear sturdy shoes and bring water with you. Other than that, just enjoy viewing the plane trees, olives, cypresses and rhododendrons!

Let me think, did I forget anything? Hmm, yeah, there are a couple of villages that are worth visiting. Like Agia Galini, an old fishing village that, if I’m not mistaken, also has a beautiful (and popular) beach nearby. Or Plakias, a once tranquil fishing village that has now become a retreat for adventurous backpackers. Or like Spili, which also happens to be my father’s hometown-village-whatever. Spili is a breath-taking farming village that has developed nicely. At night, it turns into a big park since no cars are allowed to drive through its stroll-friendly main road. Its main attraction is the “Lions”, a long fountain that consists of more or less 19 Venetian lionheads from which fresh water flows and splashes. Spili is also near the beaches of Agia Paraskevi and Agios Pavlos.

Oh, don’t forget to visit Amari and the archaeological museum of Rethymno. The province of Amari consists of two valleys, prime walking and touring territories. I never visited it myself but I’ve only heard good comments from people who have. As for the archaeological museum, air-conditioned and beautifully arranged, it has a lot of charming pieces that make it worth visiting. It won’t take you much time either.

Crete’s capital since 1971 and the fifth largest city in Greece, that’s Heraklio.A bustling modern city, the kind of place you usually run away from in your holiday, that’s Heraklio too. But a city you should avoid at all cost? That’s not Heraklio. Heraklio, which was previously known as Kandak (‘the moats’) or Handakas in Greek and Candia, is kind of an obligatory stopover due to its two main attractions, the museum and the palaces of Knossos and Phaestos. OK, blah blah blah, now let’s move on to the pattern, right?

Heraklio Hotels

Why should I go to Heraklio?

Usually people don’t ask this question, for they already know the answer: Heraklio is the place where you will find the palaces of Knossos and Phaestos and the second most important archaeological museum of Greece (after that of Athens). You can’t claim you went to Crete if you don’t visit these places, you know that. They’re the heart of Crete, the spots where you can witness the grandeur of the Minoan civilization. Solely these are reasons enough to visit Heraklio, maybe even decide to make it the base of your vacations. But if you want a couple of more reasons. just keep reading and you will find some.

What does Heraklio look like?

Heraklio, as I said before, is a city, a modern city with all the good and bad parts of this term. You might even come to find that the bad parts are a little more prominent than you expected. Tourism has taken the best of Heraklio and the changes it’s been through are sometimes painfully obvious.Let me make my personal comment at this point: I’ve lived three years in Heraklio. My sister was actually born there. It’s been a long time since then and I was a lot younger, too young to bother looking around and forming an opinion about the place where I was living, but I can remember how things looked through the eyes of a kid. Things have not changed a lot till this day. Heraklio is still a town that gives and takes. There’s nothing you may need that you won’t find in Heraklio.

On the other hand, there are some things that might be vital for you and that Heraklio simply can’t give you, things like a great view or a breath of fresh air in the morning, a moment of peace and seclusion.

So, that’s what Heraklio looks like, what Heraklio is. Since you are reading this section, I assume you have already decided you want to go to Crete. Whether you will stay in Heraklio or not though, is exclusively up to you.

Which places should I not miss in Heraklio?

Well, I guess from what I’ve said and what you perhaps already know, Heraklio has two unmissable attractions (or three, depending on the way you count), the museum and the palaces of Knossos and Phaestos. Since I’m going to refer to the archaeological sites later on, let me focus on the museum for now.

So, Heraklio’s Archeological Museum, just a few blocks away from Plateia Eleftherias, is the place where you will find most of the masterpieces of the Minoan civilization. You see, as I read a while ago, a Greek archaeologist who went by the name of Joseph Hadzidakis once made sure a law would pass that would make sure every important find of the island would immediately belong to the museum. What was the result of this? A huge, breathtaking collection of exhibits that you simply cannot be through with in one visit.

The museum has 20 rooms, the exhibits carefully divided into teams and placed there depending on what they are or what period they date from. The first room contains finds from the Neolithic and Pre-Palatial periods for example, while rooms 2 and 3 are devoted to the Old Palace Period. In room 3, by the way, you will find the mysterious and famous Phaestos disc.

But, while the Archaeological Museum is the most significant museum of Heraklio, it’s not the only one. There’s the Historical Museum of Crete, the Battle of Crete and Resistance Museum, the Natural History Museum of Crete and the Cathedral and Byzantine Museum, to name a few. The Battle of Crete and Resistance Museum specifically, is quite new and has a stunning collection of weapons and uniforms. Well, you can tell by the names of the rest what you will find there so I’m not going to bore you with the details, just. They’re all pretty good, especially the Historical Museum. Just that.

There’s another place you might like to visit, the Cave of Eileithyia. Eileithyia was the daughter of Zeus and Hera, the goddess of childbirth and fertility and this cave was the most important place of he r worship, where pregnant women would rub their bellies against a stalagmite that looked like a pregnant belly. If you wish to visit the cave though, you’ll have to ask at the archaeolo-gical museum. You see, the admission is free but you’ll have to make an arrangement with the guard at Nirou Chani

Now let me name some villages you have to visit: Ag. Deka, Mires (that is more like a town, but anyway), Kato and Pano Karouzana that offer traditional Greek nights to coach parties, Ag. Pandeleimonos, Kastelli, Sklaverohori with the 15th-century church Eisodia tis Theotokou, Archanes, a down-to-earth farming centre where the remains of a Minoan palace were found in 1964.

Lake Zaros is yet another Heraklio must. The Votomos spring flows into this small but quite pretty lake. Along the road to it, you will find tavernas with delicious specialties, while around the lake there are benches, a children’s playground and an attractive restaurant.

Finally, even if you’re not a Christian, you should consider paying a visit to Moni Vrondissiou for its extraordinary view alone. Moni Vrondissiou is a double-aisled monastery, its buildings surrounded by a wall, with 14th-century wall-paintings and a 5th-century marble fountain.

OK, before I move on to the question-answer plan (that, as it seems, worked just fine in the other sections), just let me say a couple of general things about Chania, things I know, before they slip my mind. So, here goes: Chania is the second city of Crete and used to be its capital until 1971, when Heraklio took its place (hence the. kind of bad feelings that Haniots and Herakliots have for each other, but, well, that should not concern you as it will have nothing to do with your vacation). It’s built on the ancient site of Kydonia and Kydonia even used to be its name for a while in the past, until it was changed to La Canea. Chania also claims to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities. Hmm. Well, that’s about it, let’s move on to the substantial questions.

Chania Hotels

Why should I visit Chania?

Well, that’s kind of a general question, don’t you think? There are lots of reasons why one should visit Chania. I think the right question is why should I stay in Chania? So, let’s see. Chania is kind of a larger version of Rethymno. It’s divided into the Old and New Towns. One wouldn’t exaggerate if they said it’s Venetian down to the bone, even though I’m not going to say that since its Cretan side is quite obvious as well. I’m going to borrow a line of mine I used to describe Rethymno too: Chania is essentially a rural town with the comforts of a city and the beauties of a developed village. A good thing is that Chania has an airport, so it’s easier to reach.

What does Chania look like?

Well, as I said before, Chania is kind of a larger version of Rethymno that’s also divided into the Old and New towns. The Old Town was heavily bombed during World War II but it’s still considered one of the most beautiful cities in Crete, especially because of the Venetian harbor and Quarter (that I’m going to refer to later). The New Town may be a little less traditional than the Old Town that’s full of Venetian mansions, but it’s as ravishing and has a place or two of historical importance too.

Essentially, Chania is a beautiful rural town that expands beyond types and any kinds of standards. It’s Venetian, it’s Cretan, it’s old and it’s new altogether. It’s popular because it’s a town that has developed enough to offer you the things you will need in your holiday but it’s maintained the things that will make you want to come after all, the neoclassical mansions and the Venetian fortifications, the quarters and the catwalks.

Why should I stay in Elounda?

That’s a pretty good question. The thing is, Crete is a large island with four provinces, one better than the other, so choosing one can be quite difficult. So why should you stay in Elounda? Elounda is not quite strategically placed – it’s on the right side of the island, a lot far from Chania and only close to heraklio. It doesn’t have an airport in the city, only one in Sitia. Its sites are not nearly as popular as the ones in heraklio but, on the other hand, what can compare to Knossos and Phaestos? All these things might concern you and. well, they should. Before you choose you have to know what your choice means. So, choosing Elounda means having to endure a trip that will take a while if you want to visit Chania, not being quite close to Rethymno either and not having great options when it comes to nightlife. But choosing Elounda also means being next to heraklio and its sites without actually having to stay there, surrounding yourself with unique beauty and a little bit of silence (as much as can be found on an island like Crete), being ready to discover beauties that most people ignore.

What does Elounda look like?

Crete’s easternmost province is also a varied province, meaning you will find lots of things there, all of them characterizing it but none of them prevailing. The plateau, the windmills, the cave and the ruins or forts in every other village or town make Elounda a quite special place with a touch of nature and history. On the other hand, Agios Nikolaos is perhaps the most cosmopolitan and touristy capital of Crete, with the best luxury hotels.

Personally, I never managed to understand what Elounda is. That’s not a bad thing, really. Well, what I mean is, Rethymno was always the Venetian town with the comely harbor, Chania was the province next door, with lots of tourism and a side of tradition, while heraklio was the big city, the ‘mother’ and capital of Crete. But when it came to Elounda, I could never quite describe what it was and is. It’s all-in-one-in-small-portions, a different province, a part of Crete I never really got. This might be just me, but I always thought this is the feeling Elounda gives, a mixed sense. It’s magic, really, unique. You should feel it.

Crete is the biggest Greek island, 260km long and 60km wide, and it is situated to southeastern part of the Mediterranean sea. It is an island full of contrasts.

The Cretan history started in 6000 BC when it was first inhabited. The era most known is the Age of Copper which is also known as the Minoan Civilization (2600-1100BC). The palaces of Phaestos, Knossos and Zakros were built during this period of time. Tourists from all over the world come to Crete every year to visit the palace of Knossos and take a look at the magnificent murals. They stand in long lines even hours before the archaeological site opens in the morning just to take a look.

During the time of the Minoan civilization’s rise the Minoan ships traveled for commercial reasons and cooperated with the Mediterranean people. As a result they came to contact many different civilizations that gave a boost to the development of their civilization that we admire even today as the first high-level European civilization.

The island and its people have endured occupations by foreign forces as well as religious persecution. First by the Romans, and then the Byzantine rule was followed by the Venetians (1204 – 1669), whose formidable fortresses, such as Fragokastello and other buildings in Rethymno and Chania testify to 400 years of foreign rule. Oppression and religious persecution by the Ottoman Turks (1669 – 1898) encouraged a strong independence movement. By 1913, led by Eleftherios Venizelos, Greece had become a province of Greece. The island was again occupied by the German forces during the World War II despite the resistance. Today, the mountains, the sea and ancient history combine with the Cretans’ relaxed nature to make the island an idyllic holiday destination.

To the northern part there are numerous resorts and large cities such as Heraklio, Chania and Rethymno and smaller ones such as Agios Nikolaos and Sitia. To the south there are only small towns with the biggest among them being Ierapetra, Tibaki, Mires and Palaiochora. The southern part is also ideal for those who are in search of quiet, isolated beaches.

If you want to visit the mountainous areas and the villages that are quite far from the sea have in mind that the roads are a bit difficult with no lights or signs although they are usually covered with asphalt. There you will have the opportunity to find small, traditional villages with no signs for tourists and villagers eager to talk to strangers. People who usually reside these areas are old, proud and friendly, willing to help you or give you information and treat you to some raki or tsikoudia as it’s the traditional drink’s other name. Don’t say no to that treat since it is an insult to do so. If you bump into a local while walking don’t hesitate to say hello and you will understand how friendly and kind these people are. They may start sharing some “mantinades” with you, small rhymed poems often heard in Crete and sometimes created on the spot. Unfortunately you won’t be able to understand them if you are not Greek and to tell you the truth Greeks don’t understand them either sometimes since the Cretan dialects are usually used to form the lyrics.

Have in mind that Cretans are proud people strongly connected to their island’s traditions. You will often see men wearing black shirts, special trousers called “vrakes” tucked carefully in their boots called “stivania” and a bandana-like accessory called “Sariki”.

You may even hear stories of grooms eloping with brides because the families do not consent to their marriage or what the Cretans call a “vendetta”, meaning the non-resolved conflict between two families held for years and accompanied by the murder of the members of one family from the other and vice versa for matters of honor. Nowadays, these phenomena still exist but fortunately they have been diminished but you can understand how important honor and family is to the Cretans.

As far as marriage procedures are concerned, – when both families agree – the Cretans invite the whole village to the wedding of their children. After the ceremony is over they treat the guests to honey and nuts while the men start shooting in the air with their guns – because most of them do own guns. This is a bit shocking if you are not from Crete but they just do it to show their happiness. A special menu including wild goat accompanied by rice boiled in wild goat soup is in order. This special rice is only served after marriages, it is called “gamopilafo” meaning the rice of marriage and it is really delicious. Being present in a Cretan marriage is something that you shouldn’t avoid if they invite you, not a rare occasion since everybody is welcome to such events.

“I Corfu”: that’s what the little magnet on my home’s fridge says. My son loves these little things, be they magnets from islands, from the shop just two blocks away from our house or from pizzerias. He just adores them, which is why the first thing I always buy when I go somewhere is a little magnet for him and the fridge. Of course, I used to buy them long before he was born (I like them too), but now I’m not even allowed to forget it.

It’s been seven years since I went to Corfu. It was with my wife and two of my best friends, Evelena and Chris. We spent two weeks there, even though we’d only planned to stay for one. That’s how much we loved it!

Anyway, before I start, I have to keep up with my plan, which says I have to get rid of the general information before I get into details. So, Corfu is the 2nd largest and most known island of the Ionian Pelago, it was named Corcyra in ancient times, after a mistress of the god of sea Poseidon and its Greek name is Kerkyra.

That’s all!

Well, the eternal question is what follows:

Corfu Hotels

Why should you visit Corfu?

I guess “because I liked it” is not a satisfying answer, huh? Well, OK. Here’s the thing: Corfu is quite an attractive island. Actually, some of the Greeks and tourists consider it to be the most attractive Greek island. Homer himself once described Corfu as a “beautiful and rich land” and famous Shakespeare had it in mind when creating the magical isle of the Tempest.

Corfu is architecturally special, besides its natural beauty. The periods it has been through, the Venetian, the English and the French, have changed it and shaped it making it what it is, with its castles, its kandounia (stone-flagged alleys) and its arcades. Its beaches are gorgeous (mind that even Chris, who never swims, did this time) and the places you can visit in Corfu are numerous: castles, museums, monasteries and palaces.

Let alone Pontikonisi, the small beautiful island situated between Agriovotanos and Ellinika. Take the time to learn more about the “mouse island”, as they call it, in my page Pontikonisi.

So, now that we answered this question, let’s move on.

What does Corfu look like exactly?

Well, I think I kind of already answered that. Its capital is merely Venetian, but the whole island is a combination of things. It’s the greenest island of the Ionian Pelago, with lovely landscapes and beaches and lots of traditional Greek villages.

Which places should I visit?

Well. the past ten minutes I’ve been stuck in front of this question behind the screen, trying to decide how I’ll start. It’s not that Corfu doesn’t have places. On the contrary, there’s so many of them that I just can’t choose where to begin.

Should I start with the Esplanade? Perhaps. Besides, the Esplanade (or Spiniada) is one of the largest squares in Europe and one of the reasons why Corfu is such an attractive island. In the northern end of this mixture of park and town square is the Palace of Saint Michael and Saint George. The Palace was built between 1819 and 1824 by the British and now houses the Museum of Asiatic Art, one of the largest and most significant privately formed collections in the world.

If you like peculiarity though, a museum you should not miss is the Museum of Paper Money. This museum has banknotes from all over the world and Greek notes dating from the nation’s birth. You can even learn how they’re printed, since in one of the Museum’s rooms the stages of the manufacturing process are demonstrated thoroughly.

Another museum I personally enjoyed visiting is the Corfu Shell Museum in Benitses. This museum that has thousands of beautiful sea treasures is not only unique in Greece but also one of the best museums dedicated to shells and other sea treasures in Europe. Sponges, corals, starfish and fossils, a collection scientifically labeled, that’s what you will find there, along with some unusual shells and souvenirs that you can buy.

As for the Archaeological museum of Corfu, you can find it in the Garitsa Bay. Open since 1967, the Museum is the bay’s main attraction, but not the only one. Its neoclassical mansions and the British cemetery with its intriguing headstones at the graves create a beautiful picture. The cemetery has actually become a natural botanic garden now, with rare species of wild flowers.

Are you religious? Nevermind, don’t answer that. Even if you’re not, two monasteries of Corfu are worth your time. I’m not religious myself, but I actually enjoyed the visits. The first one is the Monastery of Platyteras that contains two beautiful icons given to Corfu by Catherine the Great in honour of Count Capodistria who is buried there and the other one is Zoodohos Pigi Monastery, which was built in 1228 on the site of a Byzantine fortress and offers a view to the sapphire sea below.

The moment sightseeing tires you, I recommend you to pay a visit to Corfu Aqua-land. It is a huge water park 9 km west of town in Agios Ioannis. The best thing is that you only pay an entry ticket and then you can use any facility you want! It’s pretty organized and you can see for yourself in this site how cool it is!

Chios is one of those islands that will always hold a special place in my heart, one of those islands that were more than just a vacation destination or a step closer to achieving my goal of visiting all of the Greek Islands. It’s one of the islands that means so much more to me. Do you want to know why?

When I was in high-school, there was this girl in my class, Marina, who was a bit. scary. She was the freak of our class, if you know what I mean. She’d wear black clothes and paint her fingernails black and put on too much makeup, making herself a target for all those who liked being bullies. My friend Hope of course was never one of those people. She’d talk to her, be friendly, maybe even hang out with her and tell people who teased her off (and since she was one of the ‘cool’ kids, they’d stop).

So, one day Marina confessed something to Hope: she thought she was a psychic. Now you cannot imagine how hard I laughed when she told me that. I mean, come on, a psychic? Anyway, Hope didn’t believe her either, but she agreed she’d “read” her hand and I decided to go along, just to see what she’d say.

Now so many years later, not even one of those things that Marina predicted has happened to Hope. Not even one. But. when she finished reading her hand, I asked her one question: “if you’re a psychic, tell me, which island should I visit this year? An island I’ve never visited”. Now I don’t know if she took a wild guess or if she talked about me with Hope, but she told me to visit Chios, an island I surprisingly hadn’t visited before. She said that something very good would happen to me there. Well, I didn’t really believe her, but I figured. why not?

Let me just tell you that it was in Chios I started dating my wife.

Chios Hotels

What does Chios look like?

When you step on this island, your first impression is anything but the best. I remember noticing it on the people’s faces around me. I, of course, know better than to judge a whole island by my first impression, so I waited until I’d wandered around a bit before I formed an opinion. I’m suggesting you do the same. Chios is a rather beautiful island. It has a unique and varied architecture; most of its mastic villages are quite original; it has several decent beaches. Concrete buildings and trendy bars flank the town’s waterfront. The island’s atmospheric old quarter is full of Turkish houses. In general, an oriental atmosphere lingers over Chios.

Are there any places I should not miss in Chios?

Chios has several museums that are worth a visit, even if it’s a short one. First off, there’s the Byzantine Museum. Sheltered in a mosque dating from the 19th century, it displays a collection of art, tombstones and other odds and ends too big to fit anywhere else. The courtyard specifically is cluttered with Byzantine, Genoese, Turkish and Jewish steles, while beautiful icons on wood adorn the interior.

Then there’s the Archaeological Museum of Chios, which contains sculptures, pottery and coins dating from the Neolithic Period. But the one that I personally like the most is the Chios Fort Museum, near the Kastro. It displays artillery and the French cannons are of particular beauty. Near to it you’ll find the Turkish cemetery, spiked with tapering steles.

Besides the museums though, there’s one place that you would definitely regret missing: the village of Pyrgi. Pyrgi is one of the most extraordinary villages in Greece. It’s fortified, with narrow and labyrinthine streets. The building faηades are decorated with intricate grey and white designs, with several patterns, either geometric or based on flowers, leaves and animals. It’s just. ravishing.

Are there any historical or archaeological sites in Chios?

Since I’m a person who adores castles, I’m going to start with Chios’ castle. It’s only fair, anyway. The Kastro is the most prominent medieval feature of the town. It was improved by the Genoese after they acquired Chios in 1346. Today though, it lacks the southeasterly sea rampart that fell prey to developers after the devastating earthquake of 1881. Its most impressive gate is the southwesterly Porta Maggiora. In front of the door the palataki (=little palace) has a lovely Genoese faηade covered with numerous windows.

Then there’s the Kambos. In the 14th century, the Genoese chose this area to built their homes. So, here and there you’ll catch a glimpse of these simple residences among the luxuriant orange and lemon plantations. Most of these houses have finely carved balconies, terraces and elegant steps. You can also visit one of them, the Salvagos house. It was purchased by the town to be restored and opened to the public, so don’t miss your chance.

There’s also the Korais library. Housed in a lovely neo-Classical building that was built in 1884, it contains Korais’ works. Old books, such as ‘the History of Egypt’, printed at the time of Napoleon, are displayed among the more recent work. The top floor has been transformed into a museum where you can view fine portraits of members of the Argentis family (the ones who restored this building after World War II).

Finally, don’t miss the Ottoman palace. Dating from the 16th century, it has a faded blue faηade and wooden loggias and it encompasses a whole block of houses. The rear, ochre-colored part of the building was the domain of the sultan’s wives.

What about Chios’ beaches?

As I said, Chios has several decent beaches. Well, let me just say that ‘decent’ was an understatement. Most of the beaches in Chios are actually excellent.

There’s Karfas, 5km south of Chios town. It has fine sand, clean waters and tourist facilities such as sun beds, umbrellas and water sport equipment for rent. Then there’s Agia Fotini, near the village of Kallimasia. Agia Fotini is one of the most beautiful and popular beaches of Chios, with pebbles and limpid waters.

Apothyka is an unspoiled beach, very clean, near the village of Mesta.

Elinda has deep, crystal-clear azure waters and smooth black pebbles, which were formed from the lava of a nearby volcano that exploded centuries ago (and turned this beach into a unique location).

Giali is an exquisite organized beach with crystal-clear waters. Limnos has sand and small or, at some points, big pebbles. As for Didima, it’s ideal if you are looking for a place where you can swim.

It was about seven years ago when I decided I’d visit Chalki. It was a random choice, really: I made a list of the islands I hadn’t visited, looked at them and chose Chalki, without research, without anything.

Of course, when I met with my friend Hope and told her we’d go to Chalki the following week, she looked at me and asked: “why Chalki?” Surprisingly, for the first time, I wasn’t prepared for that question. I just stuttered and said, “well, because. it’s one of the few Greek islands I haven’t visited yet.” Of course, she demanded I do better than that, so I started thinking and finally came up with a totally irrational explanation which, surprisingly, made her laugh and convinced her. See, Chalki can be roughly translated as “bronze”. In one of our favorite shows, the main characters used to visit a club called “The Bronze”. So, I just told her “Come on, let’s go to the Bronze!” and explained what I meant.

Later on, I researched and brought to her some information about the island, thus finally totally convincing her to come with me and Leela (who I’d had no trouble convincing).

What does Chalki look like?

Chalki was once a fertile island, but now it’s barren, with fresh water shipped in by tanker. Sheep and goats roam the rocky h illside. Nimporio is Chalki’s harbor and only settlement, a quiet and picturesque village with a Neo-classical flavor. A row of ruined windmills stands above the harbor. Chalki is a traffic-free island.

Which places should I not miss in Chalki?

The main sight of Chalki is Agios Nikolaos Church. The church is known for its magnificent black and white choklakia pebble mosaic courtyard depicting birds and the tre e of life, as well as its elegant tower, the highest of the Dodecanese.

The Byzantine Church below the Crusader Castle is a very interesting place to visit as well, with its beautiful frescoes. It’s also the centre of the 15th-of-August festival.

Finally, there’s Monastery Agiou Ioannou Prodromou (Saint John the Baptist Monastery) that has an attractive shaded courtyard. If you arrive early in the morning, you can stay overnight; the caretakers will offer you a cell.

Are there any historical or archaeological sites in Chalki?

First of all, there’s the Crusader Castle. Perched up high on a crag, it’s worth a visit for the coat of arms and Byzantine frescoes in the ruined chapel. The Knights of Saint John built it on an ancient acropolis, using much of the earlier stone.

Also, there are the old captains’ mansions that festoon the harbor. Many have been restored to their former glory or are being currently restored, while others are in a complete state of disrepair. Either way they give Chalki a picturesque look.

Are there any beaches in Chalki?

Chalki doesn’t have that many beaches, but I can think of one or two I can recommend to you.

First there’s Pondamos Beach, the beach closest to Hora and the best beach of the island. If I’m not mistaken, it’s the only sandy beach of the island. The water is rather shallow, ideal for families with kids but not the best for snorkeling.

Also, there’s Ftenagia Beach. It doesn’t have much sand, but there is excellent rock swimming and the snorkeling is far better. It also has a lovely taverna nearby.

Where should I eat in Chalki?

There are a couple of places where you can have a quite decent meal. One of them is Mavri Thalassa (Black Sea), at the end of the harbor. It’s a local favorite, serving delicious seafood dishes. The kalamaria (calamari), when available fresh, are simply delicious.

Giannis is a rather good place as well; a Georgian-run taverna with great service and a limited, but genuinely good menu selection. Try the Symi shrimps, they’re amazing.

O Houvardas is one of your best bets, a pretty good eatery popular with yacht people. Omonia is the place for fresh fish, seafood and grills. As for Remezzo, it’s a pretty good pizzeria that also serves some tasty pasta dishes.

What about Chalki’s nightlife?

Nightlife on Chalki was described to us by locals as “spontaneous”. What does that mean, exactly? I’m not pretty sure. There are a couple of bars you can visit, like Nikola’s To Steki, Areti’s (a beautiful cafι-bar), Kostas and Vocolia.

How do I get to Chalki?

You can reach Chalki by sea; it’s connected 3-4 times per week with Rhodes, twice per week with Piraeus (a rather exhausting trip, 30 hours!), Karpathos and Kassos and once per week with Kos, Kalymnos, Milos, Sitia (Crete) and Agios Nikolaos (Crete as well).

I’m guessing that if this is not the first article you’re reading from the ones I’ve written, you’re going to be rather surprised when I say this, but I’ve only visited Astypalea once. and it was not on summer. It was Easter, about one year ago, and it was with my wife Leela and our friends Evelena and Chris.

At this point, let me tell you that Leela is surprisingly religious. She goes to the church whenever she can and she hates even the thought of doing anything that could constitute as disrespectful behavior against Christianity’s rules. So, when we asked her if she’d come with us to Astypalea for the Easter week and the one after it, we had a hard time convincing her that we would not do anything really “fun” during the first week.

I’m a fairly religious guy myself and I kept that promise. But since my second week to Astypalea was the only one when we had “fun”, I think you can understand why I’m going to refer to the first one only when it comes to what kind of food we ate.

What does Astypalea look like?

Astypalea is a remote island with high cliffs and a hilly interior. Bleak and butterfly-shaped, it struggles to find its place: it’s a part of the Dodecanese, but its architecture and culture will fool you into believing it belongs to the Cyclades. Astypalea has many coves and sandy bays along the scenic coast; it also has a waterfall and valleys with citrus groves and cornfields – the only places where nature makes its presence known, since the main town is treeless with bare, gently contoured hills. The town of Hora is actually dazzling though, white and fortified.

Are there any places I should not miss in Astypalea?

Astypalea, just like most of the Greek islands, has a beautiful archaeological museum. The island is in fact a rich trove of archaeological treasure and many of the finds are one display here. The collection runs from the prehistoric-Mycenaean period through to the Middle Ages. You should look out for the fine collection of grave offerings from two Mycenaean tombs that were excavated at Armenohori, as well as a little bronze Roman statue of Aphrodite, which was found at Trito Marmari. Aphrodite was always my favorite Greek Goddess and, let me tell you, this statue does her justice.

What about the archaeological and historical sites of Astypalea?

First of all, there’s the splendid Venetian Kastro of the Quirini family. Built on the site of the ancient Acropolis, this beautiful Kastro has several houses inside that were built there for protection. It also has two churches, the silver-domed 14th-century Panagia Portaitissa (Madonna of the Castle Gates) and the 14th-century Agios Georgios (Saint George), built on the site of an ancient temple. The Quirini coat of arms can still be seen on the gateway of the Kastro.

Then there’s also Meltezana, a fertile valley on the isthmus, which used to be a Maltese pirates’ lair. It’s a scattered, pleasantly laid-back settlement with a long sand and pebble beach shaded by tamarisk trees. So, why am I mentioning it here? Because there are some remains of Roman baths with mosaics on the settlement’s outskirts.

What about Astypalea’s beaches?

Luckily, there are several good beaches where you can take a dive in Astypalea. For example, there’s Vatses and Kaminiakia that can only be reached by boat, but they’re worth the effort. Vatses even has a stalactite cave, Negrou, just behind it.

Tzanaki is the unofficial nudist beach of Astypalea. Agios Konstantinos is definitely the island’s best beach, with an excellent view of Hora. Agios Ioannis is quite ravishing as well, a lush spot with orchards and an extraordinary beach.

The paved road north of Skala passes a few beaches, all named Marmaria. Some of these beaches are worth visiting.

So, what can one say about Andros? That it’s the northernmost and second largest island of the Cyclades group? That it’s a mountainous island with Pe-talo as its highest peak? Maybe that the locals refer to it as “Rock”? Or maybe that it has the highest level of annual rainfall in relation to the rest of the Cyclades and, as a result, is very fertile?

Nah. All these sound intriguing, but they’re not enough now, are they? I guess I should make this a little bit more personal. So, what’s my Andros story? I visited Andros about eleven years ago and it honestly was one of the best summers of my life. That says a lot, trust me (since I make sure all of my summers are exciting).

It was July and it was Georgia, Michael, Leela (my wife) and me. Actually, we were supposed to go to Crete (again), but my brother decided he wanted to spend the holiday with his friends at our house, so we had to find another place. Luckily, Leela’a parents, who had recently moved to Athens, had a house in Andros, so we decided to go there

We spent two weeks in Andros, two amazing weeks that included swimming, sight-seeing, clubbing and lots and lots of relaxing. So, these two weeks tell me one thing: Andros is simply extraordinary.

Before I move on, do you want to hear a funny bit of information? Andros is the place that Leela ans I got engaged

Andros Hotels

So, what does Andros look like?

Well, Andros is more or less an island with a ‘split personality’. Separated into two parts by a mountain, it’s lush and green on one side, then scorched and barren on the other.

Plane-trees, eucalyptuses, walnut trees, oaks, cypresses, almond and citrus trees make sure Andros is a quite green island in both summer and winter. Andros also has remarkable fauna: partridges, hawks, martins, wild pigeons, sea gulls and a rare species of eagles.

Andros is also distinctive on account of its architecture. Naturally, it has the same modern complexes typical of the Cyclades (white cube-shaped houses, that is). But it also has some unusual fortified houses, farmhouses with dovecotes, stone bridges and watermills, along with a few proud watchtowers dating from Ancient times, when Paleopoli was the capital.

Are there any places I should not miss in Andros?

There are several places that are worth visiting in Andros. For example, near Apikia, there’s the location of Pithara, a landscape of exceptional beauty with a waterfall created by its springs. There’s also the Embereikio Almhouse, one of the most imposing buildings of Hora. There’s the Archaeological Museum and the Kaerios Library, or the ruins of the Venetian Fortress (which, now that I think about it, belongs to the archaeological/historical sites section, but. eh).

But one’s the place I’m going to say you should NOT miss, no matter what, and that’s the Museum of Modern Art. The Museum of Modern Art (just like the Archaeological museum) was donated to the state by Vasilis and Elise Goulandris of a wealthy ship-owning Andriot family and it’s earned Andros an international reputation in the art world. It usually features the work of several promising Greek artists, but each year, from July to September, the gallery stages an exhibition of one of the world’s greatest artists. Want examples of previous exhibitions? OK, then, prepare to be stunned: Picasso, Matisse, Bra-que, Toulouse-Lautrec, Miro.

Now don’t think that just because I focused on the Museum of Modern Art so much, the Archaeology Museum and the Kaerios Library are not worth a visit. The Archaeological Museum exhibits the findings of the excavations of 1960-1977, dating from the Geometric era, and it’s quite breathtaking itself. As for the Library, it includes manuscripts, rare editions, works of art and the full library and historical archive of the philosopher, theologian and fighter of the Revolution of 1821, Theofilos Kaeris.

Are there any archaeological or historical sites in Andros?

Well, first of all, there are the ruins of the Venetian Fortress that I mentioned earlier. Actually, the ruins are not typically in Andros, since they stand on an island nearby, but that island is linked to the tip of Andros’ headland by the shaky remnants of a bridge.

Andros actually seems to have a thing for forts and towers. There’s the tower of Lorenzo Kaeris (dating from the 18th century), the Tower of Follerau, the Agios Petros Pyrgos.

Follerau was a banker in Venice. Now, if I remember correctly (and I always do), a few years ago, when the third floor of his tower was demolished hundreds of Venetian coins were found inside its walls.

As for Agios Petros Pyrgos, it’s the best-preserved ancient monument on Andros. Dating from the Hellenistic era, this mysterious tower stands 70ft high. The upper storeys were actually reached by ladder.

Aside from the towers, there’s Paleopoli (=old city), the ancient capital of Andros. During 4th century it was destroyed by an earthquake and a part of it is now underwater. During the excavations of 1956 many sections were brought to light, such as the agora of the ancient city, as well as traces from the enclosing wall and the foundations of the acropolis. 1037 (or was it 1039?) steps lead down to the bottom of this archaeological site.